The last thing you want indecision on when planning a trip abroad is your ability to cover the costs. Will hotels be too expensive for me? Is there local transport and if not, can I afford to rent a car or bike? What about meals and activities? Will I need to provide my own meals, and if that is the case, are there ample provisions at my destination, and at what price?
Please take a deep breath, and hold it in for a second or two before exhaling: Costs will not ruin your vacation to Koh Chang, regardless of what income bracket you are in, as there is something there for every budgetary consideration. The bottom line is you are going to have a wonderful vacation, and I will hopefully assist via this post:
Vacationing anywhere in Thailand (including Koh Chang) cannot be considered expensive unless you are unreasonable in your approach, choosing accommodation that is above your means. Food is wonderfully inexpensive at all but the most exclusive hotels or restaurants and transportation is dirt cheap.
Located close to the border with Cambodia, Koh Chang is Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket. It is much quieter than either Phuket or Samui (the third largest island) despite a major increase in tourism, and the benefits of fewer tourists are good news to the tourists that make an effort to visit.
Supply vs. demand is a universally understood concept, and the more you have of something, the less each item is worth. Go to your local fruit wholesalers in the early morning when they have tons of bananas, and you will pay a different price to the one you’d pay if you went later in the day when bananas were becoming scarce.
Choose to travel in-season when many tourists are looking for accommodation and eating in restaurants and just watch the prices soar. The first rule of travel is to do so out of season wherever possible. Airline prices improve, accommodation and food are less costly, and many other facets of travel are directly affected.
Koh Chang is no different, so aim for out of season, but don’t despair if that’s not practical – even in-season, prices are rarely exorbitant, and if you find they are, just try another hotel, restaurant, souvenir stall, etc.
Getting There
Elephant Island – or, more correctly, Koh Chang in Thai – has no airport, so flying is out. Still, Koh Chang is only 30 minutes away (and easily reachable via minibus or private car) from Trat province on the mainland via the roll-on/roll-off ferry. You might need to fly into Trat (TDX) from elsewhere (possibly Bangkok); see below.
Once you land in Trat, there are minivans and cars outside the airport offering door-to-door service from the Trat Airport to your hostel or hotel on Koh Chang. The combined minibus/ferry ticket is usually THB550 per person.
The minivans tend to use the faster, ‘Ferry Koh Chang’ service from Ao Thammachat in Trat Province to the Ao Sapporot terminal on Chang.
Koh Chang From Bangkok
There are four daily flights from Bangkok to Trat (the town in the province of the same name), all operated by Bangkok Airways. The flight takes around 60 minutes.
Suppose you cannot face another flight after arriving in Thailand: Buses and minivans travel from Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) to the pier for Koh Chang and Trat town for those staying over. Collect your luggage and clear customs, proceeding to door number eight on the first level. Look for the service desk of the tour company ‘Suvarnabhumi Burapa Co, Ltd.’
You can choose between a microbus or a 40-seater bus at a strangely similar price. Some buses will proceed directly to Koh Chang, rolling straight onto the ferry
You can rent a car in Bangkok and drive to Koh Chang, but since we are discussing the costs of visiting Chang, that might be a little excessive. However, having your own vehicle on call speeds up your travel times if you are very short of time.
The most budget-friendly way to get there is to take the Skytrain to Ekkamai (Eastern) Bus station and hop on the 999 bus around eight or nine am. (Later buses cost more, so don’t sleep in that morning!) The trip costs THB260 and takes five hours.
Onto the hourly ferry next (another THB80) for the 30-minute sail. A songthaew on the island charges about THB125 per passenger, depending on where you are staying, taking you to your hotel. Bang Bao is a little further, at the southern end of Chang, and will cost THB150 each.
For transportation on the island, use the songthaews or tuk-tuks or even hitch-hike if you care to. Renting motorcycles would be the next best option but would certainly impact your budget.
Bangkok – Koh Chang is THB930 (THB465 in each direction)
Restaurant Meals in Koh Chang are THB1600 (Add THB950 per week for a couple of drinks daily)
Self-catering or street stalls is THB910 (Add THB350 per week for a couple of drinks daily)
Snacks and drinks during the day THB1050
Accommodation is THB2600 for the ‘budgeteers’ or THB11 200 for more luxury.
Transportation on the Island is THB700
Activities (Optional) are THB3000
(All costs are per person/ per week – note that sharing accommodation will be half the costs I have quoted, so make friends quickly!)
Meals on Koh Chang
The biggest mistake westerners make regarding food when traveling to other countries is to make snap judgments regarding the available food and then eat at fast-food joints or fancy restaurants. This is almost always because you are either not sure of the sanitary conditions of the cooks’ workplace or because the food looks unappetizing.
On occasion, you will be correct. However, for 98% of these judgments, you will be very wrong. Simply look at the locals; are they frequenting the street stall or vendor? Do they seem to be enjoying the meal? If both answers are in the affirmative, do yourself a culinary and educational favor, and sit down (if seats are free).
Locals do not eat at dodgy food stalls and the frequency of meals being both produced and served works in your favor. At a busy spot, food doesn’t have time to sit and spoil, and you have a far bigger chance of picking up a bug at a fast-food joint, particularly in Asia, where people prefer food that has flavor.
Eating ‘on the street,’ so to speak, is an integral part of submerging yourself into the country’s ethos. Try the local cuisine, and if you’re unsure at first, ask to see in the pots. You will usually be welcomed, and you can just point at what interests you.
Street stalls abound on Chang, with Pad Thai, Thai omelets, the ubiquitous fried rice, and Tom Yum soup the norm, but many other dishes are also available. Western-style food, like smoothies and salads with local ingredients, is very popular, and you will normally spend around THB50 for a medium-sized meal.
Avoid fizzy drinks and alcohol if you are on a budget, or create a special spot on your planner list for them, as two drinks might easily cost more than your entire meal. If you decide to eat at restaurants, your meal cost may increase by 50-100%, but the prices will not be high if it’s a simple, locally patronized eatery.
The Austrian/Thai couple that runs the Lucky Gecko in Bailan has a really nice menu with several cuisines at very reasonable prices.
Breakfasts might be fried bananas and condensed milk with coffee for THB30 and a lunch of five or six pork satays for THB40. Finally, a fried rice dinner and a salad or seafood for THB60 give you a typical day’s meal spending. Add THB50 if you have a beer, water, or soda. (Or buy these at the local store at lower prices)
Supermarket Prices
- Milk – one liter = THB50
- Beer Std size and brand THB80
- Bottle of wine THB600
- 1kg of cold meat THB450
- 1kg of basic cheese THB700
- 20 x cigarettes THB115 for local brands and THB150 for international brands
Activities on Koh Chang
Continuing our theme of a budget vacation, there is not much on Chang to add to your sightseeing resume, and it’s mainly long hikes, exploring the villages, and slow-roasting your body on the beach for you. Unless, of course, you crack open that piggy bank just a little, in which case you can:
- Take an ATV (All-Terrain Vehicle) course
- Scuba Dive – The Marine Park off Chang provides a wide range of diving, from coral outcrops to shallow, sloping reefs ideal for snorkeling. You can also dive the recently sunk Royal Thai Navy ship HTMS Chang, which has become a second home for a wide range of marine life, including barracuda, eels, and the odd turtle and reef shark.
- Take in the crocodile/snake’ show’ for THB200
- Take a boat trip to the National Park. THB 880
- Elephant trekking is THB800 for an hour, and there are currently six elephant camps on Koh Chang (‘Elephant Island’), which allow you to join the Ellis for a swim, feed, and take a ride on them. The most popular and possibly humane camp is Ban Kwan Chang, reportedly supported by the Asian Elephant Foundation.
- Snorkeling is very popular in the water off and around Chang, and many operators offer the service at reasonable prices. The ‘five island’ snorkeling tour is the best known, with boats departing from Bang Bao or Kai Bae Beach (on the west coast) and heading into the Koh Chang Marine Park.
- Thai cooking lessons are great fun, and many single-day courses cost around THB1400, teaching you a starter, main course, and dessert at least, but beware; you’re expected to eat what you create…
- Hike to Klong Plu Waterfall– Due to it being the easiest accessible waterfall on the west coast, Klong Plu is the most frequented on the island. Near the northern end of Klong Prao, a short stroll through the jungle ejects you at this attractive waterfall. Visit quite early in the morning, thus avoiding the crowds. THB200.
There is also archery, kayaking, and even more. Still, each activity will ruffle the feathers of your budget, so plan accordingly and avoid running into a budget wall later in the trip.
Accommodation on Koh Chang
Starting at around THB300 for a night, hostels on Koh Chang are not expensive, but tariffs can certainly rise sharply to THB4000 at the resorts. If you’d rather splash out a little on sleeping comfortably in a pleasant environment with a few extra amenities, then plan on spending from THB1500 per night.
There is a multitude of resorts and hotel clusters on Chang that give incredibly good value for money – Take the Aana Resort, for example:
Located beside the Klong Praow Beach in Ko Chang, this resort offers contemporary accommodations with views of the river, pool, garden, or mountains. It houses five dining options and a spa, and breakfasts offered are Continental, American, or Buffet.
Aana Resort & Spa’s palatial rooms are equipped with an intimate private balcony and dining area. My room had a daybed and a TV with satellite channels. The modern bathrooms feature all of the standard fittings and are immaculate. Some rooms offer a private plunge pool. (Not at this price, naturally)
Guests are welcome to kayak, swim in the resort’s outdoor pool, or go on a firefly tour. The resort also has a fairly limited souvenir shop offering personalized gifts.
Thai specialties can be enjoyed onboard the Dinner Boat Cruise. Located by the river, The Cinnamon serves both local delights and international dishes. A variety of cold beverages are offered at the resort’s three bars. All this for only THB1518 (for two guests.)
Want a great night’s sleep? This property is highly rated for its extremely comfy beds, and the service is sublime. Talk about being treated like royalty…
Aana is just one of a great many wonderful places to spend a week or two on Koh Chang, but if you’re on a tight budget or plan to spend most days on the beach or away from the hotel, there are a vast number of inexpensive options, and for THB300-400 you will not be living in a hovel. Take Paradise Bungalows near Kai Bae Beach, for example:
To the east of the Gulf of Siam, and just a five-minute brisk walk from Kai Bae Beach and a ten-minute drive from White Sand Beach, Paradise is well-named. Set amid coco-palm trees, the bungalows at Paradise offer a private terrace with enticing views of the ocean. Each room has an en-suite bathroom/shower with piping hot water. Some bungalows provide air conditioning at a slightly elevated tariff.
Guests can take fishing or snorkeling trips, and the staff is well equipped to assist with sightseeing and other arrangements. Paradise’s tiny bar serves light snacks and drinks, and there are local restaurants and bigger bars that are a ten-minute (sober) walk from the resort. All for THB370 for two guests.
You get the entire bungalow with a balcony and garden view, and there is a flat-screen TV with cable and satellite channels, and as is now the norm, free WiFi. Floors are hardwood or parquet, and towels and linen are all included, as is a mosquito net.
Rooms are basic but spotless and perfect at the price.
Paradise is just one example – there are scores of others that are just as well-priced and attractive to stay in.
Conclusion
A budget week from Bangkok to Koh Chang (return trip) will cost you around THB6550, excluding gifts, souvenirs, etc. This is pretty frugal but certainly achievable.
The same week with a relaxing of the purse strings will set you back in the region of THB19500.
Is Koh Chang Expensive? Definitely not…