Years ago, when traveling through mainland Thailand, I was mystified when I overheard two people discussing the best way to travel to Koh Chang from Trat. As Koh Chang lies within the province of Trat, the point was surely moot (?), but then I realized they were referring to the town by the same name.
Dealing with a province with the same name as the main town is always as confusing as heck, but who comes to Thailand to split hairs? Like an annoying song, however, the question started to plague me and was now firmly stuck in my head. What were the best ways to get to Koh Chang from Trat? There are very few options…
The three best ways to get to Koh Chang from Trat are:
- By Songthaew from Trat to the ferry terminal and on to Koh Chang
- By self-drive car making use of the ferry
- By private transfer minibus or minivan via the ferry
Back in the ‘good ol’ days, you took a very slow, very unstable fishing boat with the thickest diesel-burp imaginable from the mainland to Chang and were happy to do so. This utopia was one of the last Thai islands to become over-run with tourists and still retains much of its unique nature.
As such, it was always a pleasure to visit, and the town of Trat was the perfect jumping-off point. Sadly, these fishing trawlers have long since stopped running between the mainland and the island, and everyone makes use of the larger – probably healthier – vehicle ferries.
As always, the decision regarding the ‘best’ way to do anything depends on the individual traveler and most often comes down to cost or time. If you have plenty of both, you are in the rare position of considering all three options, but whichever method you choose, a ferry trip lies in your future.
Fishing/Private Boats Are Not Available
I have seen speedboats and a catamaran service in the area, but at last check, these did not run between the mainland and Koh Chang, and there were no plans to do so. I would discount this option for the moment.
No Flights to the Island
Elephant Island – or Koh Chang in Thai – still has no airport, so a plane trip is out, but Koh Chang is just a stone’s throw away and easily reachable via minibus or private car from Trat town via the ferry. You may need to fly to Trat (TDX) from elsewhere, so I will discuss this below.
Once you deplane in Trat, there are cars and minivans outside the airport that offer door-to-door service from the airport to your destination on Koh Chang. The combined minibus and ferry ticket is usually 550 Baht per person (or 990 Baht return trip.)
The minivans from Trat airport use the faster, ‘Ferry Koh Chang’ service from Ao Thammachat on the mainland to the Ao Sapporot terminal on the island.
The Ferry Services
Two companies are running regular car ferry services to Koh Chang island from piers on the mainland. These are
- Ferry Koh Chang
- Centrepoint Ferry
Both operate from piers at smallish ports situated about 5km apart, both near the quaint village of Laem Ngop. Ferries generally depart every hour from 06:30 am to 18:30, and the crossing takes around 45 minutes.
The two ferry companies’ vessels dock on Koh Chang at different ports. The Koh Chang company ferry has the shortest crossing and heads to the Ao Sapporot pier on the island’s northeast coast. Centrepoint Ferry takes a little longer and docks at their pier in Dan Kao, several kilometers south of Ao Sapporot.
The advantage of Koh Chang Ferries is that they operate from early morning until evening 365 days a year. There are no days off, and amazingly, they still run on Sundays, Christmas Day, and Thai holidays. You will arrive at Ao Sapporot pier on Koh Chang, and the charge is 80 Baht for passengers and 120 Baht for private cars for a one-way crossing.
This ferry pier is possibly the better of the two and is certainly the most popular with travelers.
The second pier is the Centerpoint pier, used by the Centerpoint Ferry company, whose operators allow cars on board free of charge while passengers pay 80 Baht. The ferry runs each hour between 06.30 – 19.00 and arrives at Dan Kao pier on Koh Chang.
Be aware that this pier is not as close to the West coast resorts as Ao Sapporot pier is, and the ferries also have a longer crossing time and fewer sailings. Despite being a lot cheaper, this Centerpoint pier isn’t as popular for visitors coming to the island, but some of the budget minibus services use this point of departure as they get discounted tickets.
Ferry Reliability –
Even in the wet season, cancellations are extremely rare, as the stretch of sea between Koh Chang and Trat Province on the mainland is sheltered from any tropical storms that may blow up. The trip is seldom rough, but as a sea-sickness sufferer myself, the last thing you want is to be caught short of medication as you turn green.
I always carry meds somewhere in my backpack and recommend that you do too, just in case.
The strait starts to get choppy in November and December, following the end of the rainy season, when strong northerly winds tend to blow. This change naturally slows down the crossing time from the mainland to Koh Chang, and it can be a bit bumpy at times. (Hence the sea-sickness alert)
It is not possible to purchase ferry tickets in advance, but you will not have to queue for long unless you arrive on a busy weekend or public holiday.
The ferries tend to get busier than usual at long weekend holidays, and I suggest you get to the pier reasonably early to avoid long queues at these times. The boats do not always run to a fixed timetable when the volume of passengers and vehicles is high and instead will run continuously as vehicles arrive and roll on. Once full, they depart.
Visitors can occasionally encounter lengthy delays, and these are mainly caused by very low tides, resulting in the larger boats being unable to sail. (The lowest tides each year occur between May and July, so plan accordingly)
The majority of choice beaches and resorts are located on the west coast of Koh Chang. After docking at the pier, you will travel counter-clockwise to White Sand, Kai Bae, Klong Prao, Lonely beaches, etc. (I’m envious at this point!)
Method of Transport from Trat
Private transfer Minibus/van
If you decide to head straight to Koh Chang after flying into Trat, you’re in luck, as the airport is located approximately 25 minutes in driving time from the Ao Thammachat ferry pier. Transport using a shared minibus service is available between the airport and resorts on the west coast of Koh Chang and is operated by ‘Krungthep Limousine’ specifically for passengers of Bangkok Airways.
This service operates in tandem with the flight schedule. They drop off and pick up passengers headed to all resorts on the west coast of the island. If you’re booked in on the east side of Koh Chang, you will need to take a second vehicle once on the island.
Private Car
Self-driving between the two points is perfectly feasible, and using Route 3148 will take you just over two hours from Trat, depending obviously on where exactly you are going on Koh Chang. There is no land bridge between the island and the mainland, so this journey includes a portion on the ferry as discussed above, but the crossing is reasonably quick and pleasant.
Both ferry ports have restaurants, minimarts, public toilets, and car parking if you want to proceed without your vehicle. The roads on Koh Chang are almost all paved and in decent condition, so there is no need to avoid including your car unless you have a good reason for doing so.
However, some roads are steep and winding in several places (particularly in the southwest and north of Koh Chang) but stay alert and there should be no problem.
Car Hire companies like Hertz or Budget Car Hire usually provide a GPS in English, making driving on Thai roads much easier, but most road signs are in Thai and English, and I’ve never had any issue when driving in the Kingdom.
Pedestrians
If you don’t wish to take a minibus from Trat or hire a car, you can hop on a songthaew in Trat and make your way to the pier, where you catch the ferry. Take a blue Songthaew from Trat Bus Terminal to the Ao Sapporot pier. The cost is 60 Baht per person but anticipate the driver charging more if no other passengers are traveling.
Once you reach Koh Chang, you board one of the many songthaews at the pier, which will convey you directly to your hotel or guesthouse.
Ticket prices on the two ferry lines are roughly the same for pedestrians, but Centrepoint does offer return tickets. However, as far as foot passengers are concerned, Ferry Koh Chang is more convenient for most tourists, and more buses and minibuses are using this pier for trips back to Bangkok.
Reaching Trat from Bangkok
By Air
There are currently four daily flights from Bangkok to Trat, all operated by Bangkok Airways, the company that owns and operates Trat Airport. The flight takes around one hour.
If you have no interest in another flight after arriving in the kingdom, there are minivans and buses that travel from Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) to both the pier for Koh Chang and Trat town if you are staying over. After collecting your luggage and clearing customs, go to door #eight on the first level and look for the service desk from the tour company Suvarnabhumi Burapa Co, Ltd.
You can choose between the microbuses or the 40-seater bus at a very similar price. Note that some buses will proceed directly to Koh Chang, so you will have to alight at the Pier and take a Songthaew if you wish to stay in Trat. (A Songthaew is a converted pick-up truck used to carry passengers. Not comfortable, but very cheap)
By Car (Self-drive)
Follow the Bangna-Trat road or motorway (Highway 7) out of Bangkok until you see Highway 344. Please remain on the 344, but keep an eye out for traffic police as they are very active in this area. Starting your trip with a speeding fine will not do your mojo any good.
Join Highway 3 near Klaeng and around 23km before Trat, turn left at the T-junction with 3156, signposted to Laem Ngop. Half an hour later, you’ll reach the first of the ferry piers known as Ao Thammachat to most Thais. From here, take the 4006 for 3.2km and then turn right onto Route 3156.
After 10.1km, turn left after the Lotus Express Tesco for 15km and follow the 3148 into Trat.
Here is your route:
- Bangkok
- Ban Bung
- Klaeng
- Chantaburi
- Laem Ngop (The closest town to the ferries)
- Trat.
By Private transfer (Car or Minivan)
Private transfers from Bangkok to Islands like Koh Chang have become rather popular in recent years and are recommended when traveling with families, the elderly, or groups. Cost depends on the number of passengers, naturally, and starts at around 4000 Baht. This price includes ferry tickets and is a good option if you don’t wish to overnight in Trat.
Traveling by Public Bus
Some buses from Bangkok to Laem Ngop will drop passengers off at both of the ferry piers. Trat town is only 20 Kilometres away, and there are songthaews available to both Trat bus station and the town center for around 55 Baht per person. These converted pick-ups don’t run to fixed schedules and will depart when they are full.
There are three locations in the capital from where you can take a bus to Trat, (but remember that you may have to alight at one of the piers as discussed above):
- Suvarnabhumi International Airport,
- Ekkamai Bus Terminal, and the
- Victory Monument in the heart of Bangkok.
Do note that some buses won’t drive directly to the pier but the bus terminal in Trat.
Known by many as Eastern Bus Terminal, the Ekkemai Bus Terminal is centrally located in Sukhumvit, within 2 minutes walk of Ekkemai Skytrain station.
Hop onto bus # 999, which departs at 07:45 and 09:00, and relax for the next five hours as you head south through some beautiful countryside. This bus travels directly to the pier and is best if you decide to go directly to Koh Chang. Cost is260 Baht for the one-way trip.
If you are planning to overnight in Trat, your best option is with Cherdchai or Thanakawee Bus Tours (5-6 hours) as both companies offer more departure times and stop in Trat. They end their journey at the Trat Bus Terminal, from where you can catch a Songthaew to the pier when you are ready to travel to Koh Chang. Costs are 250 Baht, one-way.
Reaching Trat from Further Afield
From Cambodia:
Trat is located close to the border of Cambodia and makes up a popular first entry point to the Thai Kingdom. I suggest you start the journey in the very early morning due to potentially long waiting times at the border.
From Siem Reap:
If you have been visiting Angkor Wat in Cambodia, you will be based in Siem Reap and need to travel to Poipet, where the border is. Both taxis and minivans wait at Aranyaprathet on the Thai side of the border, which can take you to Trat from 2,000 Baht, depending (as always) on the number of passengers.
The cheaper, though slightly longer alternative, would be to take a bus from Aranyaprathet Bus Station to Chanthaburi, four hours away, and from there to Trat (Another 90 minutes). There is no direct service from Aranyaprathet to Trat, but plenty of loud music on the buses, so you’ll wish there was.
The fastest way is naturally by air: Fly with Bangkok Airways from Siem Reap to Bangkok and then onward to Trat. The flight leaves Siem Reap at 09:45 am and arrives at 11:00 am in Bangkok, in plenty of time to reach Trat before the last ferry departs for Koh Chang.
From Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville:
Many small businessmen are offering shared minivan services from both towns. You will cross the border at Had Lek on the Thai side and then continue to Trat about two hours away. Costs are in the region of 1000 Baht but compare prices as usual.
A cheaper option is to take a public bus to the border, and from Had Lek, take a minibus to Trat. These depart every 45 minutes. From Trat, take a Songthaew to the jetty or a minibus from the airport as detailed above.
Travelers from the further afield will almost certainly fly into Bangkok, from where you can follow the suggestions above, once you decide which method of transportation you wish to continue your trip using.
On Reaching Koh Chang
Once on Koh Chang, you will see Songthaews waiting by the arrival jetty. Just give the driver your hotel’s name, and he’ll take you right there. Prices depend on where you are staying on the island.
COVID-19
The latest official requirements for all tourists coming from one of the red or dark-red provinces are:
Vaccination certificate proving you have had either the single shot of the AZ vaccine or two shots of Sinovac as required. A negative C-19 test performed in the previous 72 hours is also widely accepted.
In reality, the only place this is ever checked is at hotel receptions when guests check-in. Many hotels won’t ask for documents as they would far rather get the income from guests than go along with legalities that cost them their livelihood.
Bear in mind that, as in all countries, this situation is fluid, and requirements and restrictions can and do change constantly.
Conclusion
What is ‘best’ for one person is not necessarily the first choice for the next person, but if you do have the time, why not take in the scenery of Thailand while you meet the indigenous people? Travel slowly and stop for meals to try dishes you won’t find in tourist resorts and experience a slice of Thai daily life.
Take a bus to Trat and a songthaew to the ferry pier. After a very short trip across the sea, slide aboard another songthaew and head for your resort. You’ll be all the richer for the effort.