Years back, when Koh Samui still had no airport, I returned to Surat Thani via a fishing boat, and from there, took a flight to Bangkok. Sitting on the right-hand side of the plane, I looked to the east and was startled to see a mini version of Australia, almost perfect in shape, in the Gulf of Thailand.
Frantic questioning of bemused passengers led me to learn that this was Koh Tao or ‘Turtle Island,‘ and I made an immediate mental note to check the island out at the first opportunity. Did it have an airport, and if not, what were the best ways to get to Koh Tao from Bangkok, where I was living at the time?
- Travel by air via Koh Samui, Champhon, or Surat Thani, followed by ferry or catamaran onward to Koh Tao
- Take a train to Chumphon or Surat Thani, then a ferry or catamaran onward to Koh Tao
- Take a bus to Chumphon or Surat Thani, then a ferry or catamaran onward to Koh Tao
It was several months before I could get back to the Gulf and make my way to Turtle Island, and when I eventually did, it was with a wallet that resembled a colander. As such, I was relieved to learn there was no airport on the island; always a good sign for lovers of authenticity (or those on a budget).
For travelers heading into Tao with a need to fly, however, there is a work-around:
1. Bangkok to Koh Tao by Air & Sea
The nearest airport to Koh Tao is on Koh Samui (USM), which is 65 km away. Chumphon on the mainland is not much further, at 85km, and further still is Surat Thani (URT) at 131km distance. All three options offer boats to Koh Tao, with Chumphon and Samui being the most popular transit points for air travelers.
Ø Bangkok to Koh Samui by Air
Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays are the best for Cheap Flights from Bangkok to Koh Samui, and there are daily flights via Bangkok Airways (19 flights daily) or Thai Airways who have just two. Flights are from Suvarnabhumi Airport direct to Koh Samui, and the trip takes around 75 minutes.
Ø Bangkok to Chumphon by Air
Nok Air offers flights at 08:30 and again at 17:05 from Don Muang Airport in Bangkok directly to Chumphon, which takes around 70 minutes. The current price is 2100 Baht.
- Bangkok to Surat Thani by Air
Flights to Surat Thani are often cheaper than flights straight to Koh Samui, making it an appealing option, notably if the most affordable fares to Koh Samui sell out. If you decide to fly to Surat Thani, ensure you get a flight that lands before 15:00, or you’ll miss the last ferry to Koh Samui and onward to Koh Tao.
Carriers are Air Asia or Nok Air, both of whom use Don Muang Airport from Bangkok rather than Suvarnabhumi.
2. Bangkok to Koh Tao Using the Train Service (Recommended)
Ø Bangkok to Chumphon by Train
Who doesn’t love trains, and certainly when they offer an economical alternative? From Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong train station, you can catch an overnight sleeper train to Chumphon, arriving in the very early morning, typically around 05:00 am.
Time for a caveat regarding transport times in Asia: Trains, ferries, and buses are often a little delayed, so always factor this into your planning.
While a little slower than flight or bus options, you do get a proper bunk bed on the sleeper train and have the chance to get some decent sleep en-route. 1st or 2nd class with air conditioning is delightful. 2nd class sleeper is 800 – 1100 Baht.
Ø Bangkok to Surat Thani by Train
Inexpensive sleeper berths exist on most trains between the two cities, and there is the added advantage of saving a night’s accommodation if you make use of them. There are ten direct trains per day for the 638km trip from Bangkok to Surat Thani. Trains 37, 39, 41, and 45 all operate as a single service as far as Surat Thani. (Bear in mind that this trip will take two hours longer than Bangkok to Chumphon.)
The fastest train from Bangkok to Surat Thani is Train #43, the first one of the day, departing at 07:50, scheduled to complete the journey in 11 hours. The slowest train can add four hours to that trip, which is double that of the bus journey.
Hua Lamphong is the Thai name for Bangkok’s central train station, located in Yaowarat 350 meters from the Chao Phraya river. If you’re coming from Khaosan Road, your best bet to the station is via taxi or tuk-tuk. You can take a boat from the Phra Athit Pier on the Phra Athit Road. Boats depart every 15 to 20 minutes going South and cost less than 20 THB per person.
For Hua Lamphong Station, you need to alight at the Marine Department Pier, where you will still have a 15-minute walk depending on your luggage, etc. Be warned there are some difficult roads to cross on the way from the pier to the station, so you will need timing and patience to do it safely. (I repeat my suggestion; taxi or tuk-tuk!)
Strangely enough, ticket prices are lower when bought on-site than they are online, but the risk of first and second-class A/C Sleepers filling up before you get to the ticket window may outweigh the saving. The Full Moon parties every month on Koh Phangan add a considerable burden to this route, so bear that in mind when booking.
1st Class A/C Sleeper 1,589 to 1,829 THB
2nd Class A/C Sleeper 998 to 1,258 THB
Train #85 departs Bangkok at 19:30 and reaches Surat Thani at 04:13, just in time for the day to begin and for the ferry trip after a quick breakfast.
3. Bangkok to Koh Tao Using the Bus Service
The Lompraya Catamaran Company offers transportation by bus from Bangkok and catamaran from Chumphon to Koh Tao. An air-conditioned bus from Bangkok takes about 6 hours to Chumphon, where you board a high-speed catamaran at the Lompraya Pier at 08:00, arriving in Koh Tao around 09:30.
The cost is 650 Baht, and there is also a very early morning departure from Bangkok, where you get to Koh Tao around 3 pm. You will need to decide whether you prefer to sleep on the bus – saving overnight accommodation charges – or enjoy the scenery en-route.
- Bangkok to Chumphon
The boarding point in Bangkok is located at Bangkok Sai Tai Mai Bus Terminal aka. Southern Bus Terminal on Baromrajchonnee Road. From here, there are buses to Chumphon’s Suwanateekhonsong Office. Journey time is about 8 hours, and costs from 150 to 300 baht depending on the bus class. A public bus is the cheapest way to make the trip, but it is less than enjoyable, to be honest.
There are many operators at the Southern Bus Terminal, and buses run every day. As with the trains, you might want to take an overnight bus to save on costs and arrive in time for the ferry.
- Bangkok to Surat Thani
Your departure point in Bangkok is once again the Southern Bus Terminal on Baromrajchonnee Road. The trip takes between 10 and 12 hours, depending on the bus operator and traffic/road conditions, and the overnight bus costs around 650 Baht.
4. Bangkok to Koh Tao by Car (Self Drive)
Ø Bangkok to Chumphon
Renting a car in Bangkok and driving to Chumphon yourself is undoubtedly feasible, and there is a vehicular ferry that leaves at night. However, I would suggest that you leave your vehicle in Chumphon as the roads in Koh Tao are in poor condition and are best left to songthaews (Converted pick-up trucks used to transport passengers)
Consider making the crossing as a pedestrian and catch a songthaew to your accommodation on the island. At around 21 square kilometers, the island is easily suited to your renting a motorcycle (225 Baht per day) or even a mountain bike to get around. There is also a water taxi that runs between all of the beaches.
5. The Sea Crossing Options
Ø Koh Samui to Koh Tao
Leaving Koh Samui from the Paralan Pier at Maenam, the catamaran arrives at the only ferry pier on Koh Tao, Mae Haad Pier, on the island’s west coast. The cost is 600 Baht, and the journey takes around 90 minutes. Note that there are snacks available for purchase, and the boat does have toilets on board.
Alternatives to the Catamaran – Koh Samui to Koh Tao
In choppy seas, which sometimes occur in this area, seasickness can be an issue, so stock up on medication just in case, and if you are susceptible, consider the ferries instead. The Seatran ferry from Koh Samui to Koh Tao is a little bit slower than Lomprayah’s catamarans, but only slightly.
The journey time on these high-speed ferries is around 2 hours. These vessels are a lot larger than the catamaran and thus more stable in heavy swells. Seatran ferries depart from the Bangrak pier on Koh Samui, arriving at Mae Haad pier on Koh Tao, only 30 minutes behind the cats. The cost is around 565 Baht.
Songserm is another ferry company offering trips from Koh Samui to Koh Tao. Tickets on Songserm ferries are very slightly cheaper than the Lomprayah or Seatran because their ferries are a little older and slower. Journey times are around two and one-half hours, and the facilities onboard are not marvelous. (See caveat above)
Private charter speedboats give you another option. Great for small groups of travelers or those in a hurry, the speedboats are fast and flexible as you can be picked up on most beaches and dropped off at the beach on Koh Tao.
Ø Chumphon to Koh Tao by Catamaran or Ferry
- There are two piers in Chumphon sending boats to Koh Tao:
- Thung Makham Noi Pier. It is used by Lomprayah’s catamarans and is around 30 kilometers from the city. There is a Shuttle service running to the pier from town for 100 baht. In theory, cats are running to Koh Tao from Chumphon on a Friday and a Sunday, but I could not confirm their status and suspect the service is suspended due to Covid-19.
- Mattaphon Pier is located 14 kilometers from Chumphon and is the pier used by the Songserm Ferry Co. There are seven sailings weekly, so it’s best to book in advance where possible. (see caveat below) The crossing takes just less than three hours.
Caveat
Like several other ferry operators, Songserm has suspended all services in the Gulf of Thailand from 31 March 2020 until further notice due to the C-19 pandemic. Check very carefully which ferries are running before parting with any money as the industry is volatile right now, so care with planning is more important than ever.
Ø Surat Thani to Koh Samui
Make your passage to the Lomprayah Catamaran Co. office at Tapee Pier near Surat Thani at least 30-45 minutes before your scheduled departure. Cruise by catamaran with three different departure times per day to Koh Samui without any stopovers en-route. Currently, they are the only ferry company operating a service from Surat Thani to Koh Samui, where you change boats to Koh Tao.
Relax either inside or outside in the comfortable chairs and enjoy the fresh sea air, and after two hours (or so,) you will be dropped off at Nathon Pier on Koh Samui. Note that the service is 800 Baht and is not wheelchair-friendly.
This crossing via catamaran is reasonably smooth for most of the year. However, it can be less than ideal during the choppy season, and I would suggest you avoid this segment, opting for the Chumphon route instead.
Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran Co.
Bangkok –
- 154 Rambuttri rd., Banglumpoo, Bangkok 10200
- +66 (0) 2629 2569-70
- +66 (0) 8 7890 7766
- info@lomprayah.com
Chumphon –
- Chumohon Train Station
- +66 (0) 8 1956 5644
Koh Tao –
- Mae Haad Pier
Songserm Ferry Co.
- 172 Khaosan road. Taladyod,Pranakorn Bangkok
- (66) 64 967 5533
- info@songserm.com
On Arrival at Koh Tao
Mae Haad Pier is located on the western coast of Koh Tao, near the island’s southern end. Most of the development hugs the west coast from the center of the island in a southerly direction – pretty much all of the amenities are very close together.
One thing you won’t find in short supply is a dive shop, of which Koh Tao has dozens, and for a good reason. This island has some of the finest diving in the entire country – and that’s saying something.
Not only do divers visit Koh Tao for the exquisite coral reefs and scores of fish species, but many choose to obtain their dive license there. Well respected for the standard of their dive schools, the PADI instructors produce many fine divers, and small wonder the dive industry is so big on Tao.
Many dive sites are scattered about the island, but all are accessed only by boat, and there are no beach entries. Not all diving is close to the island – many excellent sites exist within a short boating trip of Tao:
One of the most memorable dive sites is Sail Rock or Hin Bai. The site takes about 90 minutes by boat from Koh Tao, and the result is worth every minute. On arrival at Hin Bai, divers see the eight-meter-high rock protruding from the Gulf, and few are not moved by the experience. The site is considered a deep one at over 40 meters below the surface in some areas, and an Openwater 2 license from Padi or Naui will be required.
Because it is so far away from the island, the marine life here is plentiful and unique, largely unaffected by the divers coming from Kho Tao. The site’s cave-like shape, known to most as the chimney, is a strong challenge for experienced divers.
At about five meters, divers can enter the chimney and descend to about eight meters. Very exciting indeed.
As with all adrenalin sports, diving is not cheap, and a two-dive day including gear will set you back about 4000 Baht.
Conclusion
All things being equal, I suggest you either travel from Bangkok to Chumpion by air and then onwards by boat, or take the overnight sleeper train, also to Chumphon and continue by sea directly to Koh Tao. However, many travelers prefer to fly directly to Koh Samui and take a speedboat across to Turtle Island – your choice.
COVID-19 is playing havoc with travel plans, as we all know. Service levels have dropped worldwide, and Asia is no different, with many operators simply ignoring emails and not bothering to change the details of their operations on their websites. Exercise caution with all travel plans and be prepared to be extremely flexible with every aspect of your trip.
Koh Tao is worth the effort.