You’re sitting in a hubbub of noise at your favorite drinking hole and nursing a well-earned beer when through the drone of sound, you suddenly prick up your ears. Four people at the next table are discussing their holiday plans, and the snow and slush outside start to mentally recede as the conversation heats up.
They are going to a lovely hot country for part of winter, and it’s one you have been dying to visit: Thailand! The land of dance, culture, beaches, and exotic foods, and they are struggling to choose between the capital, Bangkok, and Pattaya, a beach town, so you listen attentively…
The difference between Bangkok and Pattaya is fundamental. Bangkok is real and Pattaya, contrived, existing almost exclusively for tourists. Bangkok offers culture, authentic food, theatre, history, and art, while Pattaya focuses on sex, drugs, fast food, and fun at all costs. Reality vs. fantasy.
This comparison is not to suggest that each does not have some of the attributes of the other because they certainly do. In general, people visit Bangkok to get a solid picture of life in Thailand, but they can also take in Patpong’s red-light district.
On the other hand, Pattaya is, for the most part, visited by tourists wanting to party with abandon after checking their scruples at the door, and yet, culture and family fun are also on offer.
Bangkok
Bangkok – or Krung Thep, is the capital city of the kingdom of Thailand and the city into which almost all visitors to the country fly. It is vast, teeming with vehicles and people that seemingly occupy every inch of available space between the buildings. It appears hard, and many tourists never see past this, but it also has a wonderful under-belly.
Its full name is just too long to type here – ok, I’m too lazy – but it is commonly known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon or simply Krung Thep, to the inhabitants. The name means ‘The Great City of Angels’ and the more time you spend there, the more you can understand the reason.
Now I feel dismissive, so here it is in all of its 168-letter glory: Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.
The Romanization of the name makes it the longest city name globally and, when pronounced correctly, takes almost 30 seconds to say. So it’s actually more of an incantation, giving praise and respect to the city. Scant wonder then that Thai people most often use Krung Thep in daily speech.
With 11 million people living in Bangkok, the city is home to almost 16% of the country’s population, with another 14 million living in the Greater Bangkok Metropolitan area. Moreover, with almost 35% of the economy, the capital carries a considerable portion of the kingdom’s wealth and power.
As with numerous capital cities worldwide, it started as a tiny trading post – In this case, in the Ayutthaya Kingdom around the 1400s. With a vast river, the Chao Phraya, driving trade, Bangkok grew out of the ruins of the Thonburi Kingdom in 1872, when Rama I defeated Taksin The Great.
Rama I promptly moved the capital across the Chao Phraya (named after his previous title) to Rattanakosin Island, where he established the House of Chakri, the present ruling dynasty. Thus, Rattanakosin Island became Bangkok which has radiated outwards ever since.
How to Get There
It is possible to reach Bangkok by road after boating in from one of the islands or visiting Chiang Mai or another Thai destination, but most visitors fly in.
The city has two international airports, the original one called Don Mueang (IATA code DMK) and the new one, which opened in 2006, called Suvarnabhumi Airport, which now carries the code BKK. The latter is ranked 17th-busiest in the world with 63 million passengers annually
Most of the larger international carriers fly in and out of BKK, so this is probably where you will arrive from abroad. However, if you fly in from another Thai location or use one of the many budget airlines in Southeast Asia, DMK is the airport at which you will land.
N.B. If you plan to fly onward to Pattaya, be aware that the two airports are separated by a one or two-hour bus, car, or shuttle ride. (Your method of travel is unimportant thanks to Bangkok’s famous traffic volume)
There is a shuttle bus between Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang Airport (Bus No. 554) that can be caught from the Public Transportation Centre. You simply need to board a shuttle bus from Level 2 of the airport terminal to the BMTA Public Transportation Centre. Free of charge.
The Airport Rail Link from BKK is the cheapest way (and the fastest) from the airport to the city. When you deplane, follow the signs to the train station, located on the basement floor. The train will take you directly to Makkasan Station in about 35 minutes.
Thailand does not have an Uber presence, but a similar service called Grab functions along the same lines, and you can get Grab from the airport into the city.
There is no bus service direct from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Bangkok. To reach the city by bus, you board the same shuttle from level two of the terminal to the BMTA Public Transportation Centre and change buses for central districts within Bangkok.
Metered taxis are now available from the airport to Bangkok. They depart from the public taxi stand on the airport’s ground floor (one floor below Arrivals). There is a 50 Baht / U$ 1.60 fee on any taxis departing the airport.
You are expected to pay the expressway tolls on the way into Bangkok, a trip of 30-60 minutes. Taking a taxi into Bangkok will usually cost between 150 and 350 Baht, plus tolls, depending naturally on your hotel/hostel location and traffic conditions.
Two bus services run from Don Mueang (DMK) airport into Bangkok – the A1 and the Airport Limo Express bus. The cheapest and most convenient is the A1, which leaves the airport every five minutes, and takes 20-40 minutes to reach the Mochit bus station in central Bangkok.
Where to Stay in the Capital
· Close to the Action
The Khaosan Road area in Banglamphu is wonderfully central, and if you want to sink straight into the heart of the capital, this is a great place to start. Of course, Khaosan Road itself is extremely noisy and teeming with happy people having fun, but if you’d prefer something a little less frenetic, you’re also in luck.
Just nip up one of the roads off Khaosan, and there are some beautiful places to be found for very little increase in cost. However, Banglamphu is not short of accommodation venues, so if one is full, move on to the next.
There are many accommodation options in the capital, from a dorm bed in a mixed room of 30 people through smaller, single-gender dorms to private rooms. Aircon will sometimes be offered but won’t always work, and breakfast might be provided to you, so check what you’re getting before you commit.
If staying on Khaosan Road, U$5-8.00 will get you a small, private room with a ceiling fan and a communal shower. The room will probably be situated directly above the hostel’s restaurant, so expect noise. You might need earplugs.
Close to Khaosan Rd, you can get a double bed in a private room from U$12.00. This price might include WiFi, breakfast, and a swimming pool.
· Families
Sukhumvit is also central but a lot less noisy, so great for families, with rooms averaging around U$40.00 at present. I have just been quoted U$35 for a beautiful room with enchanting views of Bangkok for two adults and two children. (I used the ages of ten years in the quote, but it will at least give you an idea of costs, eh?
Rooms are generally immaculate in this price range, and T.V., WiFi, breakfast, and a swimming pool are all provided.
The season and the state of the pandemic will obviously affect the prices of stays in hotels and guesthouses. Still, as a guesthouse owner myself, I can assure you that we are very agreeable to negotiation. You want a well-priced holiday, and we need the business in order to survive.
It might be best if you considered all prices you find to be approximations only, as they fluctuate massively, particularly for accommodation, and certainly in developing countries where the loss of income can mean the loss of life – literally.
What to See and Do in Bangkok
Ø Wat Phra Kaew – Wat Phra Kaew, commonly known in English as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is considered by Buddhists to be the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand. It is located within the Grand Palace grounds.
There are 40 700 Buddhist temples in Thailand, of which over 34 000 are still in use, so Wat Phra Kaew is very special and venerated by the Thai people, as are the royal family on whose grounds it is situated.
Unlike most temples in Thailand (that are used mainly as living quarters for monks), Wat Phra Kaew’s layout houses several sacred buildings and objects d árt. The temple is decorated with elaborate carvings, paintings, and pagodas throughout and is aesthetically pleasing.
- The Grand Palace – You will remember that Rama I moved the capital across the Chao Phraya to Rattanakosin Island, which became Bangkok in 1872? The Grand Palace was initially his residence and has been the home of the sitting Thai King and the administrative seat of the Thai government for over 150 years.
The Grand Palace is in central Bangkok, within easy walking distance of Banglamphu, and quickly reached by taxi or tuk-tuk from Sukhumvit.
The enclave consists of several buildings, beautifully maintained, which offer excellent photo opportunities and house priceless treasures and historical items.
- Wat Pho – The Reclining Buddha, measuring 15 meters high and 46 meters long, is a must to any first-time visitor to Bangkok. Covered in gold leaf, the Buddha is spectacular, but take a wide-angle lens if you want to photograph it. The Buddha’s feet are five meters long and exquisitely decorated in mother-of-pearl illustrations of the Buddha’s auspicious laksanas (characteristics).
You will see 108 bronze bowls in the wat, into which you can toss a few coins if you wish. These go to the temple’s upkeep, and legend shows that the Buddha performed 108 auspicious acts on his path to enlightenment.
- Chatuchak Weekend Market – Said to have 15 000-plus stalls, JJ Market, as it’s known to locals, is quite simply enormous. I cannot remember any time when I have not been lost in the rabbit-warren of lanes, but who cares? The odd coffee shop or juice store always appears when I am getting peckish, and then it’s off to try again.
There are maps at each entrance if you care to read them, but I am always delighted to wander up and down the narrow aisles until I eventually tire and leave by the nearest door. Once you’re out, you can more easily decide on a direction, and you’re only lost when it’s permanent – right?
Located in mid-town, the market is best reached by tuk-tuk or local bus if taxis are out of your budget range. Although it’s called a weekend market, many traders are also there on Fridays with wares of every possible description, from art to peanuts, refrigerators to clothing.
- Damnoen Saduak Floating Market – Located in Ratchaburi Province, about 100 kilometers southwest of Bangkok, this is the archetypal floating market as seen in every Thailand documentary. Heavily touristed now, the market is still trading and deserves a day visit if you can spare it.
- Boat Trip along the Chao Phraya River – Over 40 000 people per day, still use the river system to get to and from work, and riding the waterway is an enlightening way of seeing Bangkok in situ. There are many places to alight and disembark, and prices are expectedly low for the short hops – less exciting than a tuk-tuk but much more fun.
- Visit the Bangkok National Museum – If museums are simply not your ‘bag,’ avoid this like the plague, but this place is essential to a Bangkok visit for the info-nerds like me. More Thai art and artifacts are housed here than anywhere else in Thailand, and you get a solid history lesson from the visit.
There is a great deal more to see and do in this amazing city, and after twelve visits, I haven’t even scratched the surface. I have found some gems, though, and so will you.
Is Bangkok Safe to Visit?
If you take crimes per capita, Bangkok has far less crime than one might expect from a megacity. Most are petty crimes, like purse snatching and pilfering from luggage on long-haul buses. Hold-ups and kidnappings are rare, and murders seldom include tourists, but exercise your grey matter and avoid dangerous situations as you would at home.
Pattaya
Pattaya – pronounced ‘putt a ya,’ not pa tay a – is a city of around one million inhabitants on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand. Named after the wind that blows from the southwest at the onset of the rainy season, Pattaya was another sleepy fishing village until the 1960s.
G.I.s were sent to Pattaya for R&R during the Vietnam war, first arriving in June 1959 and word spread like bushfire, detailing the beauty of Pattaya compared to Bangkok. Soon, troops were actively requesting Pattaya, where they rented houses and let their hair down as troops abroad do.
Within 30 years, Pattaya had transformed itself from a getaway destination for international soldiers during the Vietnam War to Thailand’s best-known Red-Light district among sex tourists from every corner of the world. Research has shown that only The Netherlands’ Red-Light district in Amsterdam has more sex tourists annually than Pattaya.
The rainy season is May to November, but there is plenty of sunshine between downpours even over this period, so don’t allow the rain to put you off.
The natural beauty of Pattaya and the bay it encircles is beyond question, and it is easy to see why many people with families still flood to the resort city. However, it must be clearly stated that there are far better resorts for people with children, whether young and impressionable or teenagers.
Even by day, ladyboys and scantily-clad ‘women’ can be seen plying their trade, and by night, watering holes of every description wait like trap-door spiders for their prey. This is not the type of thing that a child should face, so be aware of this issue.
Family-friendly activities are to be found despite the seediness, so if you are committed to visiting Pattaya with your loved ones, your family will have plenty to keep them busy. Just avoid Walking Street at night.
How to Get There
The easiest way to reach Pattaya is to fly into U-Tapao Airport, around 35 kilometers to the city’s southeast. Thai AirAsia, Thai Lion Air, and others offer these flights from Don Mueang airport in Bangkok.
However, with Pattaya only 150km / 93mi from Bangkok, you might not want the hassle of taking a shuttle between airports, and there are several ways to reach the resort city:
Bus – From the Suvarnabhumi Airport Public Transportation Center, the bus costs around U$ 5, and the trip will take around 4.5 hours.
Taxi – You will still have to take the shuttle to Don Mueang, but the trip from there is only 90 minutes to two hours, costing U$ 40.
Train – Takes two changes (total of three trains) from Don Mueang and costs U$ 5-70, depending on the class, season, etc., and takes 4.5 hours.
Passengers coming to Thailand from Shanghai, Macau, Singapore, or Kuala Lumpur can fly directly into Pattaya, as can those from Koh Samui, Phuket, or Chiang Mai.
Where to Stay in Pattaya
Pattaya Beach Road will have most of the more prominent hotels, which are family-friendly and the most-pricey. Central Pattaya is more for nightlife lovers and is around 40% cheaper on average, but South Pattaya is the cheapest option when considering similar accommodation levels.
One thing to remember in Pattaya is that this is a Beach Resort, so accommodation is never a problem. There are always deals to be made; some by booking in advance on the ‘net, and some by simply arriving and gauging the situation.
I tend to arrive and leave rather quickly, so there is seldom time to book in advance, but visitors with families might not wish to take the chance, though there are advantages…
According to the Department of Tourism, there are approximately 407 hotels with a total of 49 000 hotel/hostel rooms in Pattaya at present, so a little legwork on arrival might save you hundreds of crispy U$D for your two-week stay for, say, four people.
The added benefit is that you can see exactly what you are getting and, more importantly (in Pattaya,) where you’re staying: Party animals in the center of town, families nearer the beach, etc.
The price range for accommodation in Pattaya is enormous. A room for a couple can run from U$13 to U$72 very quickly, and that’s for rooms that are of a similar standard, so look around, either online or in-person – it’s certainly worth the effort.
A family room for a couple and two ten-year-olds at a lovely family-safe hotel right on the beachfront is U$24.00 per day right now, calculated on a three-day and a 14-day stay. (There is a difference of a few dollars, but not enough to bother noting)
There are plenty of hostel bunkbeds in mixed and single-gender dorms, but unless you are on a super-tight budget (and who hasn’t been there?), you might find a far nicer room for very little more money. With 49 000 rooms, you really should find something good in your price range.
What to See and Do in Pattaya
Ø Have a Thai Massage – A professionally executed Thai massage is heavenly, leaving your entire body so relaxed that it is common to fall asleep during the process. Check with your hotel concierge for locations, or arrange for one to come to your room. (Be very clear as to what you are actually ordering.)
- Nightlife – Already covered, the main street for bars, girls, bar-girls, ladyboys, etc., is the aptly named Walking Street in the center of town. This street is closed to vehicles after 6 pm and gets packed with people, many of who are not perfectly steady on their feet. Watch out for pickpockets when you are jostled.
This vibrant street, just a half kilometer in length, is a mélange of sound, lights, food stalls, and people looking to have a good time. The Lucky Carousel Bar is a great place to start the festivities with cheap(er) drinks and a great vibe.
If the bar seems to be spinning when you arrive, you’re still sober – The pub has two bars, both of which spin like a carousel. Be far more concerned if they appear to stop spinning later…
Ø Jomtien Beach – Around four km from the city is a lovely 6km long stretch of beach perfect for families and party animals alike. The vast expanse of white sand means there is plenty of space for everyone, and jet-skiing, kitesurfing, parasailing, and windsurfing are all available.
Good food and souvenirs can be found on the beach road, and just 10km/6mi further is something for the kids:
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Ø Cartoon Network Amazone – This waterpark near Pattaya is far more extensive and much more impressive than anything else of its kind in Thailand. With 30 state-of-the-art water rides and slides, it is the world’s first Cartoon Network-themed waterpark.
Fortunately, the park is split into sections catering to smaller children and teens and fully-grown ‘children’ with families of their own. It features Ben 10, The Powerpuff Girls, Gumball, Darwin, and others from popular shows on Cartoon Network.
It’s pure, unadulterated fun for the entire family (including jaded adults) with the Surf Arena – a simulated wave pipe for surfing – and the Mega Wave area, which is like ocean-bathing sans the nasties.
- Big Buddha (Wat Phra Yai) – Climb the stairs to this 15m/49ft golden Buddha and take in the view of Pattaya as you haul the oxygen back into those desperate lungs. Situated atop the wooded Pratamnak Hill, south of Pattaya, the Buddha can also be accessed by taxi from the bottom.
- Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden – Nong Nooch (pronounced ‘Nung nut’) is an oasis of cultured and manicured enterprise and a great place to pause and reflect for an hour or two.
There are several themed gardens, including a superb orchid garden, a 17th Century French ‘Jardin,’ and species-specific areas. A pickup and drop-off service is available for hotels in the city.
- Mini Siam – An excellent way for kids to see the wonders of the world in miniature. London’s Tower Bridge, Sydney’s Opera House, and Paris’ Arc de Triomphe are there, as is New York’s Statue of Liberty. In addition, Thailand offers Bangkok’s Victory Monument and Wat Arun in remarkable detail.
Is Pattaya Safe to Visit?
The seedy, sordid nature of nightlife in Pattaya has brought out the worst in a portion of the population, many of whom have migrated from other parts of Thailand, and even neighboring countries to ‘make some easy money.’ Fortunately, these people are almost exclusively involved in the sex and drug trade and can be easily avoided.
If you visit Pattaya to sample the pleasures of the night, be aware of the scammers that abound in those circles. Unplanned, drugged drinks are not unheard of, and trick-fleecing by sex workers is on the rise. Therefore, I suggest you pay only what you agree to and don’t carry too much in cash and jewelry on your night out.
For the rest, including families, there is no serious cause for concern. Like most Thais, the great majority of Pattayans are exceptionally kind and patient and have a propensity to find joy in everything. Criminals are shunned by this group, and visitors are very safe indeed.
Conclusion
Consider your reasons for holidaying in Thailand for a moment. Are you wanting to absorb the culture, try new foods, walk around the city, and see authentic Thai people going about their daily lives? Access scores on attractions within 50km of the city? Visit an ancient floating market and several Buddhist temples?
Perhaps you prefer a beach holiday with fun, sun and partying. Will you be sampling the exciting wares of Sin City by night and playing beach volleyball by day as you expand your social group exponentially? Do beach massages and gorgeous bodies tickle your fancy more than temple gongs and traditional dance?
The choice is yours…
